Surface Features

Naturals, bearding, etch channels, and other surface-related inclusion features.

By Fabian Moor Last updated
microscopy identification diamond grading

Introduction

Surface features are characteristics found at or near the polished surface of a
gemstone (technically blemishes rather than inclusions, though the distinction blurs
when a feature extends inward). They carry independent diagnostic information about
authenticity, treatment history, and durability. The most gemmologically significant
are naturals and trigons: a natural is a remnant of the original crystal surface
left by the cutter to preserve weight, confirming natural crystalline origin since
no synthetic material carries a genuine growth surface. Trigons (tiny triangular
growth pits or raised pyramids on diamond octahedron faces) are oriented opposite
to the crystal face and are diagnostic of natural diamond, absent from all synthetic
productions [1]. Further down the significance scale, bearding
(fine fractures from bruting), extra facets, laser-drill holes, and surface graining
all provide evidence about cutting history and treatment status. In practical
assessment, reflected-light examination of the girdle at 10–40× is the fastest way
to identify many of these features before committing to immersion or spectroscopy.

Naturals

Naturals are remnants of the original crystal surface left on a cut gemstone
[1]:

Characteristics:

  • Original rough crystal surface preserved
  • Usually found on or near the girdle
  • May show trigons (triangular growth marks) [1]
  • Often left deliberately to preserve weight

Significance:

  • Proves natural origin (synthetics don't have naturals) [1]
  • Acceptable in diamond grading if confined to girdle
  • Should not affect face-up appearance

Types of Naturals

Type Description Location
Surface natural Flat area of original surface Girdle area
Indented natural Extends below polished surface Girdle or near
Natural with trigons Shows triangular growth marks Any natural surface
Twinning natural Related to twin plane Follows twin orientation

Bearding (Girdle Fringes)

Bearding consists of tiny fractures along the girdle, created during cutting
[2]:

Formation:

  • Created by the bruting (girdling) process
  • Mechanical stress causes minute fractures
  • Extends from girdle into stone interior

Appearance:

  • Hair-like fractures at girdle edge
  • Creates "fuzzy" or "fringed" appearance
  • Severity ranges from minor to extensive

Grading impact:

  • Minor bearding often acceptable
  • Heavy bearding can affect clarity grade
  • May be reduced by re-polishing girdle

Extra Facets

Extra facets are small additional polished surfaces not part of the standard cut:

Purposes:

  • Remove surface-reaching inclusions
  • Eliminate naturals or damage
  • Correct cutting errors

Location:

  • Often on pavilion near girdle
  • May be on crown
  • Should not be visible face-up (ideally)

Grading consideration:

  • Generally considered a blemish
  • Impact depends on visibility
  • Very common in coloured stones

Surface Graining

Surface graining appears as visible growth lines on polished surfaces:

Types:

  • Whitish graining - Light-coloured lines
  • Reflective graining - Shiny, mirror-like lines
  • Transparent graining - Subtle lines, often internal origin

Relationship to internal graining:

  • Surface graining often continues internally
  • Represents structural irregularities
  • Related to crystal growth conditions

Etch Channels and Figures

Etch features result from natural dissolution processes [1]:

Etch channels:

  • Tube-like cavities extending from surface
  • Created by corrosive fluids during geological history
  • Often follow crystallographic directions
  • Can contain secondary minerals

Etch figures:

  • Geometric depressions on crystal faces
  • Reflect underlying crystal symmetry
  • Trigons on diamond octahedron faces (triangular etch pits) [1]
  • Hexagonal pits on corundum

Trigons on Diamond

Pits and Cavities

Feature Description Cause
Pit Small, shallow depression Pulled-out inclusion
Cavity Angular void, often geometric Removed crystal inclusion
Chip Shallow break at facet junction Mechanical damage
Nick Small chip at facet edge Wear or damage
Scratch Linear surface mark Abrasion damage

Laser Drill Holes

Laser drilling is a treatment that creates access channels to internal inclusions:

Purpose:

  • Access dark inclusions for bleaching
  • Improve apparent clarity

Appearance:

  • Very fine, straight channels
  • May appear as tiny dots on surface
  • Often lead to bleached inclusion sites
  • Visible under magnification

Detection:

  • Look for unnaturally straight tubes
  • Follow tube to inclusion site
  • May show surface opening

Surface Features by Gem Type

Diamond Surface Features

Feature Description
Naturals Original rough surface, often with trigons
Bearding Girdle fractures from bruting
Extra facets Additional polished surfaces
Polish lines Parallel lines from polishing
Burn marks Damaged surface from overheating
Abraded facet edges Worn junctions between facets

Coloured Stone Surface Features

Coloured stones show various surface features:

  • Etch channels - Common in natural stones
  • Surface pitting - From pulled inclusions
  • Cleavage cracks - Reaching surface
  • Growth hillocks - Raised areas on crystal faces
  • Cavity fillings - Evidence of treatments

Examination Protocol

References

  1. 1. Read, P. (2014). Gemmology (3rd ed.). Butterworth-Heinemann. DOI: 10.4324/9780080507224.
  2. 2. Liddicoat, R. (1993). Handbook of Gem Identification (12th ed.). GIA Press.